Follow these easy steps to replace that “one bad board.”
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Time A full day
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$20-50
Introduction
Repairing tongue-and-groove hardwood floorboards is easy with the right tools and a little know-how. Many common problems can be fixed in a day to make your floor look like new again.
Over the years, I’ve seen my share of damaged hardwood floors. Sometimes the flaw can be repaired with wood putty and a quick touch-up. Other times, it requires surgery. Here are some tips to help you repair your flooring trouble spots.
Prized for their beauty as well as their resilience, hardwood floors can withstand most of what life throws at them. But they have their limits and severe damage that cannot be fixed with a good sanding and topcoat of polyurethane will need to be addressed. Replacing a single board or small section of damaged flooring can be a DIY project if it’s near the edge of the room. “You hope the damage is closer to the edge, because the repair is easier to do and won’t be as noticeable,” Chris Bernacki of Hickory Property Service says. “It also comes down to what your comfortable with and what your skill level is.”
Consider calling in a pro for repairs in the middle of your floor in highly visible spots. In this comprehensive how-to guide, learn the steps to replace a damaged hardwood floor board.
Tools Required
- 23-gauge pin nailer
- 23-guage pin nailer
- Cordless drill
- Miter saw
- Pry bar
- Track saw
Materials Required
- Hardwood flooring plank
Project step-by-step (14)
Step 1
Stain and finish the new board to match
I prefer to always do this step first. Test some stain colors on new floorboards and apply some urethane. Once you find a good match, repeat that process for the actual repair.
- Pro tip: Even when you use the same stain and finish, each piece of scrap floorboard may look slightly different. Stain and finish several pieces and go with the best match.
Step 2
Tape the boundary area
Inspect the damaged flooring plank and decide how much length to remove. Stagger the ends of the repair about five inches from the butt joints of the adjacent floorboards. Place masking tape to define the boundary, using the replacement board as a guide.
Step 3
Determine nail placement
Before cutting into a damaged board, identify where nails are installed if possible. “If you’re fixing boards on the first floor, go into the basement and look at the placement and direction of the nails,” Bernacki says. “This will also tell you which side is the tongue and which side is the groove of the board you’re trying to remove.” This helps you know where to cut and how to avoid nails for a smooth repair. If you can’t see the nails from below, Bernacki recommends making small initial cuts with an oscillating saw.
Step 4
Drill relief holes
Drill three 1/2-in. holes with a Forstner bit close to each end of the board you’re removing. Don’t try to get the holes perfectly on the butt joint — about 1/8-in. away is fine.
Step 5
Chisel the butt joint
With a sharp chisel, clean up the space between the holes and the end of the repair. Start by making a vertical cut to cleanly sever the wood fibers, then come in at a slight angle to remove waste. Repeat this process until you reach the subfloor.
Step 6
Make the relief cuts
Saw two parallel relief cuts an inch apart down the center of the floorboard to be removed. To avoid cutting through the subfloor, set the saw blade no more than 1/16-in. deeper than the thickness of the flooring.
- Pro tip: While making these cuts you may run into flooring staples or nails, so use a blade with carbide teeth designed for demolition.
Step 7
Finish the cuts
You can get only so close to the ends of the repair with the circular saw. Finish the relief cuts with an oscillating multitool and a narrow wood-cutting blade. “Work slowly and carefully to avoid cutting into nearby boards,” Bernacki says.
Step 8
Remove the damaged board
With a small pry bar, remove the strip of flooring between the relief cuts. Next, pull out the tongue-and-groove edges of the damaged board. Completely clean out the open section of flooring with a shop vacuum.
Step 9
Trim the tongue
To make it easier for the tongue on the replacement board to slip into the existing floorboards, trim it at a slight angle. Angle the blade on the table saw to about seven degrees and set the fence so the blade just trims the tongue.
Step 10
Trim the groove side
Cut off the bottom lip of the grooved edge of the replacement board. Be sure to set your blade depth so it only cuts the bottom lip and avoids cutting the top lip.
Step 11
Cut the replacement board to length
Cut the replacement piece to length with a miter saw. Make the cuts with a slight bevel so the piece will drop into place easier, creating a cleaner, tighter butt joint.
Step 12
Glue the boards
Spread glue on the tongues of the replacement piece and the adjacent board. Any wood glue will work.
Step 13
Install the new board
Tap the repair board into place with a rubber mallet. If you don’t have a rubber mallet, a hammer will work, but place a piece of scrap wood in between to protect the repair. Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth.
Step 14
Secure the repair
After gluing in the replacement board, add 23-gauge pins for peace of mind. Angle the gun slightly and drive in a pin every four inches. Use a micro pin nailer to do the job right.
About the Expert
Chris Bernacki is the owner of Hickory Property Service in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He has more than 30 years of experience in the trades, renovating and remodeling commercial and residential properties.
