Learn how to operate a table saw with confidence and precision.
Time 1 hour or less
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$200 and up
Introduction
This step-by-step guide covers everything you need to know about how to use a table saw safely and effectively.
The table saw is the most versatile cutting tool in your shop. It can make just about any cut; rip cut, crosscut and miter cuts. The only exception is that a table saw cannot cut curves or curved surfaces. In very basic terms, the table saw consists of a motor that powers the rotation of a blade that is held in place through an arbor.
I will admit the table saw was the cutting tool that intimidated me the most. It is big, loud, and powerful…. I am short and needed some time and experience to feel comfortable. Here I will share some tips and tricks to being safe behind a table saw.
We will start with the basic components of a table saw and give you some insight about the safety aspects so you too can feel comfortable when using this tool for cutting.
Every part of a table saw contributes to its accuracy and safety. Knowing how to use any tool will prevent mishaps and will eliminate much of the stress in your creative process.
Parts of a table saw
- On/off switch: Identify the on/off switches and know how to turn them off quickly in an emergency. Some table saws position the on/off button where the operator can hit it with their knee.
- Throat plate: The throat plate is the removable part of the table saw table surrounding the blade. It acts as an access panel to reach the arbor when changing the blade. It also prevents wood from getting caught or falling into the motor and blade housing.
- Blade guard and riving knife: A blade guard covers the saw blade connected to the riving knife (or splitter). It prevents things (like your hands) from touching a moving blade. The riving knife prevents kickbacks by keeping cut material from pinching the blade as the workpiece passes through the saw.
- Arbor: The arbor is the shaft that holds and spins the blade. It’s accessed through the throat plate when changing blades and must be properly tightened for safe operation.
- Table: The table saw table (or bed) is the saw’s work surface. The saw table supports your material and holds accessories in place that ensure your table saw is safe and accurate.
- Miter slots and miter gauge: The table saw table has two miter slots for a miter gauge, which is used for crosscutting and cutting angles in your material. The miter slots must be in perfect alignment with the blade for safety and accuracy.
- Rip fence: Also on the saw table, you have a T-style rip fence. This is the true workhorse of any table saw, as it keeps your cuts straight and accurate. Once the measurement from the blade to the rip fence has been confirmed, the rip fence gets locked into place, and you will ride your material firmly against the fence to make your cuts. Like the miter slots, the fence must be perfectly parallel with the blade for safety and accuracy.
- Height adjustment handwheel: The height adjustment handwheel allows you to raise and lower the blade to the appropriate height for the material thickness you are cutting.
- Tilt handwheel: The tilt handwheel allows you to adjust the blade angle to create a beveled cut.
Safety considerations
- Beginners should never use a table saw without a throat plate, blade guard and riving knife.
- Always wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a respiratory mask. Avoid wearing loose clothing, and if you have long hair, tie it back and out of the way.
- If a sheet of wood is too big to handle and maneuver, always have a second set of hands to help you feed the material through the table saw.
- Never freehand a piece of wood through the blade without a support such as a miter gauge or a rip fence.
- Do not stand directly behind the wood whenever possible. If the piece gets hung up and kicks back, you want the wood to fly past you and not hit you.
- Always unplug the saw when changing blades or making adjustments to prevent accidental startup.
- Inspect wood for nails, screws, or large knots before cutting, as these can cause dangerous kickback or blade damage.
- Know where the emergency stop switch is located.
- Use only sharp blades appropriate for your material. Dull blades require more force and are more dangerous.
- Never force a cut or push too hard. Let the blade do the work at its own pace.
- Never reach over the blade or remove cut pieces in the blade’s vicinity until the blade has completely stopped moving.
Tools Required
- Feather Board
- Push stick
- Table saw
Materials Required
- Wood or plywood
Project step-by-step (6)
Step 1
How To Operate a Table Saw
Set height of blade
Before you turn on the table saw, set the blade height about 1/8-in. above the top surface of the material being cut. There is much debate about how high a blade should run, but for safety purposes, keeping minimal blade exposure above the wood decreases the chances of injury or kickback.
Step 2
Position the fence
Use a measuring tape to verify the desired measurement from the side of the blade facing the fence to the edge of the rip fence. Consider the kerf or thickness of your blade and adjust your measurement accordingly. Lock the rip fence into place. The position of the rip fence may adjust slightly when you lock it into place, so double-check your measurement with the fence locked and make any necessary adjustments before cutting.
Step 3
Prep for the cut
Position the wood flush against the fence at the starting edge of the table without turning on the table saw. Plan how you will position your hands as you move the material forward. Ensure the blade guard is properly positioned. Make sure the push sticks are within reach for when you reach that part of the cut. If using a gripper or feather board, set up the position for smooth material flow. Plan your exit strategy by clearing the path where cut pieces will fall and consider outfeed support for longer pieces.
Step 4
Turn on table saw and introduce wood
Turn on the table saw and allow the blade a few seconds to get up to running speed. Position the piece of wood firmly against the rip fence and slowly feed the wood into the blade. Ensure it enters straight and aligned. As you cut, keep your eye on the contact between the wood and the rip fence. As you push the wood forward into the blade, keep downward pressure to ensure the wood rides smoothly and evenly on the table surface. Maintain a steady, controlled feed rate – don’t rush the cut. Keep your hands clear of the blade path and never reach over the blade. Be prepared to switch to push sticks when your hands get close to the blade. If the wood binds or kicks back, immediately step aside and turn off the saw before addressing the issue.
Step 5
Using a push stick
As you push the wood through the blade, keep your hands at least six inches away from the blade. If your wood board is wide enough to do it without a push stick, continue pushing until you’ve completed the cut. If not, use a push stick.
Position your push stick on the wood board before your hands get too close, placing them to maintain pressure against both the rip fence and table surface. Use the push sticks to keep wood in the proper position and push through to complete the cut, continuing to apply pressure against the fence and table until the cut wood is pushed beyond the spinning blade. Turn off the saw, and do not reach for either piece of cut wood until the table saw blade has completely stopped running.
Step 6
Using a feather board
A feather board allows the user to keep fingers safely away from the blade when making delicate or thin cuts. It also keeps constant pressure against the rip fence for the whole length of the cut, making for more accurate measurements with your cuts. The feather board also helps prevent kickback.
Before positioning your wood, clamp the feather board to the table approximately one to two inches in front of the blade, ensuring it pushes the wood into the rip fence. Adjust the pressure so it’s firm enough to maintain contact but not so tight that it binds or holds back the wood as it moves forward. Feather boards work best on straight cuts with consistent material thickness. They should not be used on warped wood or very short pieces. Push through with a push stick and allow the feather board to guide the cut, maintaining consistent pressure against the fence throughout the entire cut.
FAQ
When making thin cuts on a table saw, should the thin piece ride along the rip fence or on the outside of the blade?
Whenever making thin rips on a table saw, always ride the wider piece of the wood along the rip fence and allow the thin piece to be the drop off. Use a feather board to maintain the wood position without having to place your hand or a push stick too close to the blade.
Which blade is best for my table saw?
Rule number one with any tool: match the blade to the material. If you are a basic DIYer or a woodworking weekend warrior, look for a general-purpose table saw blade. Carbide blades give you longer life when working with composite materials. High-speed steel usually provides cleaner cuts, which is important if you are doing cabinet-grade work and want to avoid tearout. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to selecting the right blade for your table saw and project at hand.
Can table saw blades be sharpened for re-use?
Yes. This is common practice, especially when purchasing more expensive blades. Look for a blade sharpening company in your area, give them a call and drop them off. Sharpened blades can be turned around in a few days, and the sharpening costs are usually less than half the price of the original purchase.
