How To Build a Herringbone Wine Rack

Cut the parts

This entire project is made from 1×4 stock.

• Cut all the parts to length with a miter saw.

Glue up the backboard

• Edge glue the two side parts to the center piece.
  • Optional: Add dowels (as shown) to aid in alignment and stability during glue up.
• Wipe off any glue squeeze-out after it has set up for about 20 minutes.
  • It will be less messy if you do this.

Cut the backboard shape

• Once the glue dries, draw the shape of the “wine bottle” on the back side of the boards.
• With a band saw or jigsaw, cut out the shape.
  • Pro tip: When using a band saw, cut with the good side facing up. But when using a hand-held jigsaw, make the cut with the good side facing down. This prevents any nasty chip-out on the “good” side of the piece.

Drill the dowel holes

• Drill two 1/4-in. dowel holes for each joint, 3/4-in. from the edge.
  • You can lay out the hole positions by hand, which is good practice for a beginner. However, the dowel jig kit from Milescraft is inexpensive, easy to use and makes repetitive tasks like this one a breeze.

Make a doweling jig

• Make a duplicate of Part D. Drill the holes for dowels like you did for the other one, but instead, drill all the way through.
• Clamp that to the long parts (C) and use it to position the dowel holes on the face. Every part will be exactly the same!

Profile the edges

This step is optional, but it does add a touch of style to the wine rack.

• Using a router with a chamfering bit or a table saw with the blade set at 45 degrees, bevel the ends of each part.
  • Pro tip: Choose an edge profile that suits the style of the room. Roundover, ogee and beading router bits are readily available at most home stores.

Assemble the rack

• Start at the top and work your way down.
• Apply wood glue to the joint edge and the dowels and clamp for 30 minutes.
• Repeat this process for the remaining joints, removing any glue squeeze-out as you go.

Trace the outline

• Lay the rack face down on the back of the backboard.
• Trace the outline of the rack.

Attach the rack to the backboard

• Drill pilot holes for the screws (as shown), using the lines you drew as a guide.
• Place the rack face down on your workbench. Position the backboard face down on top of it and line up your marks.
• Sink one 1-1/4-in. screw at the top. Double-check alignment, then sink another at the opposite end.
• Repeat the process for the remaining screws.

Apply a finish

There are no rules here. Stain and top coat, a simple oil rub, solid color paint … the choice is yours.

• Start sanding the wood with 120-grit and sand up to 220-grit.
• Vacuum off the dust and apply your finish according to the manufacturer’s directions.
• Whichever finish you choose, allow it to dry thoroughly before handling.

Display your new wine rack

• The hole in the top of the backboard allows the wine rack to be hung on a coat hook. (Make sure the hook is anchored to a stud.)
• As an alternative, drill pilot holes in the backboard and use 2-1/2-in. screws to anchor the wine rack to a stud.